Ethernet fails on a laptop due to a bad cable/port, disabled adapter, power or driver issues, or IP/DHCP misconfigs—start with cable and adapter.
Why Ethernet Not Working On My Laptop: Quick Causes
Wired internet is simple, yet one weak link can break it. A flaky patch cord, a loose jack, a sleepy adapter, or a mismatched setting can stall the connection. USB-C hubs add another layer: a tiny chipset and power limits. Before deep changes, confirm the basics and move step by step.
Here’s a fast map of symptoms, likely causes, and where to look first. Use it to pick the right fix without guesswork.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fast Check |
|---|---|---|
| “Unidentified network” or no internet | IP/DHCP hiccup | Renew IP; reboot router; try another port |
| No link light at the jack | Bad cable/port or dead adapter | Swap cable; test on another device |
| Ethernet missing in settings | Driver/adapter disabled | Enable adapter; reinstall driver |
| Speed stuck at 100 Mbps | Duplex/negotiation mismatch | Set “Auto” or force 1 Gbps Full |
| Works on battery, drops on AC (or the reverse) | Power settings | Disable NIC power saving |
| USB-C dongle works on one port only | Port bandwidth or hub power | Use USB-C with PD; avoid USB 2.0 |
Step-By-Step Checks Before Software Tweaks
Seat the connectors until they click. Try a second known-good Cat5e or Cat6 cable. If your router or switch shows port LEDs, look for a steady link light and an activity blink. No light on either end often points to the cable or the port.
Test the same cable and wall jack with another device. If both devices fail, move to a different port on the router or switch. Bypass daisy-chained gear and plug straight into the router to rule out a misbehaving switch or power injector.
Using a USB-C or USB-A Ethernet dongle? Move it to a direct port on the laptop. Skip the unpowered hub. If the dongle feels warm or drops out when you charge the laptop, give it a powered port or a dock with power delivery. If the adapter has a small status LED, confirm it lights up when the cable is in.
Windows Fixes That Solve Most Wired Dropouts
Windows can fix a surprising number of wired issues through built-in tools and a clean reset. Here’s a practical flow that keeps data safe and gets you back online.
Make Sure The Ethernet Adapter Is On
Open Settings > Network & Internet > Ethernet. If the adapter shows as disabled, enable it. In Control Panel > Network Connections, right-click the Ethernet adapter and pick Enable if needed.
Run The Windows Troubleshooter
Use the Get Help troubleshooter for Network & Internet. It can reapply settings, restart services, and spot common faults in one pass. See Microsoft’s guide: Fix Ethernet connection problems in Windows.
Reset Network Settings
If the stack is messy, do a full network reset: Settings > Network & Internet > Advanced network settings > Network reset. This reinstalls adapters and clears custom DNS and proxies. Note your Wi-Fi key before you reset since Wi-Fi profiles are removed as well. Microsoft documents this reset under the same support page above.
Update Or Roll Back The Driver
Open Device Manager > Network adapters, open your NIC, and check Driver. If the issue started after an update, try Roll Back. If the driver is old, install the version from your laptop or dock maker. For USB Ethernet, vendor drivers (Realtek/Intel) often beat the generic class driver.
Fix Speed And Duplex Mismatches
Some links fail or downshift when one side can’t agree on speed. In the NIC’s Advanced properties, set Speed & Duplex to Auto Negotiation. If the link still flaps, test 1.0 Gbps Full Duplex or 100 Mbps Full Duplex to match the switch.
Turn Off Aggressive Power Saving
In the adapter’s Power Management tab, clear “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.” In Settings > System > Power, pick a balanced or performance plan so the NIC doesn’t nap during large transfers.
Refresh Your IP And DNS
Open Windows Terminal as admin, then run: ipconfig /release, ipconfig /flushdns, ipconfig /renew. If your network uses static IPs, confirm the address, mask, gateway, and DNS match your router.
Mac Fixes For A Dead Ethernet Jack
Open System Settings > Network. If Ethernet shows “Not Connected,” click it. Move Ethernet above Wi-Fi in the service order so macOS prefers the wire. If a USB-C adapter is in play, reseat it and try the opposite side port on MacBook models.
Renew The DHCP Lease
Select Ethernet, click Details > TCP/IP, then hit Renew DHCP Lease. Apple documents this process here: Renew your IP address (DHCP) on Mac.
Recreate The Ethernet Service
In the Network list, click the + to add a new service, choose the adapter (USB 10/100/1000 LAN or similar), name it, and apply. Remove the old entry with − if it never connects.
Check Hardware Tabs And USB Drivers
On Intel and Apple silicon Macs alike, third-party USB-C Ethernet chipsets may need drivers for full features. Install the package from the adapter or dock brand. In Hardware, try switching Configure from Automatically to Manually and set Speed and Duplex to match the switch when auto-negotiation fails.
USB-C And Dock Ethernet: Common Pitfalls
Not all USB ports are equal. A dongle in a USB 2.0 port can link at 100 Mbps only. A bus-powered hub might brown out during big transfers. Move the adapter to a direct USB-C port that supports data and power delivery. If a dock is in use, update its firmware and the NIC driver from the laptop vendor’s support page.
Some corporate builds set VLAN tags or 802.1X. If your dongle won’t get a valid IP at the office but works at home, ask IT for the exact profile or a driver that supports those features.
Router And ISP Checks That Matter
Look at the router’s port LEDs. A link light with no DHCP lease points upstream. Power-cycle the modem and router in that order: modem first, wait for sync, then router. Plug the laptop directly into the router to rule out a bad switch. If the router enforces MAC filtering, add the laptop’s MAC from ipconfig /all or the Mac’s System Settings.
Test another device on the same cable. If neither device gets an address, swap the router port. If only your laptop fails on any port, the fault sits on the laptop or adapter side.
Where To Find Key Network Settings
The table below gives fast paths to the settings you’ll use most while fixing a wired link.
| Platform | Action | Path |
|---|---|---|
| Windows 11 | Network reset | Settings > Network & Internet > Advanced network settings > Network reset |
| Windows 11 | Speed & duplex | Device Manager > NIC > Advanced > Speed & Duplex |
| Windows 11 | Disable NIC power saving | Device Manager > NIC > Power Management |
| macOS | Renew DHCP lease | System Settings > Network > Ethernet > Details > TCP/IP |
| macOS | Service order | System Settings > Network > ••• > Set Service Order |
| macOS | Manual speed/duplex | System Settings > Network > Ethernet > Details > Hardware |
Fixes For “Ethernet Connected, No Internet”
This message means the local link is up but traffic can’t reach the web. Start by pinging the router’s IP. If that fails, the issue is local (bad IP, gateway, or cable). If router ping works, ping a public IP like 1.1.1.1. A pass there with failed DNS lookups points to a DNS issue. Set DNS to the router, or try a well-known resolver.
Check firewall and VPN clients. Some split-tunnel profiles bind to Wi-Fi only and block wired routes. Disable and retest. If a security suite inspects network traffic, use its repair tool or reinstall it after the network reset.
When To Suspect Hardware Failure
If the NIC never appears in Device Manager or macOS Network after a full reset and driver install, the adapter may be dead. A laptop Ethernet jack that wiggles or feels loose can break the magnetics or pins inside. In both cases, a known-good USB-C to Gigabit adapter is a quick workaround and a handy spare.
If the same cable and port work with every other device, but your laptop still won’t link, schedule a bench test. Bring the laptop, the dongle (if any), and the power adapter. Ask the tech to run a link test and a port scan on the switch side.
Keep Wired Networking Stable
Label the wall jack and switch port so later swaps are easy. Coil and secure slack so the plug isn’t tugged by chair wheels. Avoid sharp bends in the patch cord. Update drivers and dock firmware on the same day you patch Windows or macOS. Leave speed at Auto unless you have a reason to pin it. Keep one spare cable and one spare USB-C Ethernet in your bag. If you swap routers or switches, retest link speed, duplex, and MTU; small mismatches can show up as stalls, copies, or streaming hiccups that feel like website trouble while root cause sits on the wire.
Method Notes
Steps here are based on vendor guidance for Windows and macOS networking. Microsoft’s article shows built-in troubleshooters, adapter enablement, and the full network reset. Apple’s page covers renewing an IPv4 lease on Mac. Links to both appear above.