Plug in your iPad to a laptop and the battery reads Not Charging. Maybe it trickles up only when the screen sleeps, or it drains while you work. That isn’t random. It points to how much power the port can share and whether the cable and software are a match.
Good news: this is fixable. Start by ruling out low-power ports and weak cables. Then check power-saving settings, hubs, and drivers. With the right port and a proper cable, a laptop can charge an iPad just fine.
This guide explains what’s going on, shows fast checks, and gives clear fixes. It also lists when you should switch to a wall charger for full speed.
Understanding How iPad Charging Works
Modern iPad models use USB-C for both data and power. When you connect to a computer, the two devices negotiate current and voltage. If the port can only offer a small amount, iPad may show Not Charging and wait until the screen turns off to draw a trickle. Apple notes that iPad can charge from a computer’s USB-C port or a Mac power adapter; bigger adapters charge faster.
Plenty of laptop ports are data-first. Legacy USB-A and some USB-C ports share only a little current. USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) adds a richer handshake so the charger and iPad agree on higher power levels. If PD isn’t available or the cable can’t carry the request, charging slows or stalls.
| Cause | What You’ll See | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Low-power laptop port | Not Charging message; charge only when asleep | Use a USB-C PD port or a wall adapter with 20W or more |
| Weak or damaged cable | Connects for data but won’t add battery | Try a known good USB-C charge cable; avoid worn USB-A leads |
| USB power saving | Stops charging after minutes | Disable USB selective suspend or vendor battery saver while testing |
| PowerShare off | No charge when lid closed or laptop off | Enable USB PowerShare/charging while off in BIOS or vendor app |
| Unpowered hub or dongle | Works for keyboard, not for charging | Plug iPad directly into laptop or use a powered hub with PD |
| Dirty or damaged port | Cable won’t seat or falls out | Inspect, clean lint gently, or seek repair for a bent connector |
| iPad too hot or cold | Charging paused alert or slow | Let it reach room temperature, then reconnect |
| Old drivers or OS | Connect/disconnect loop; iTunes can’t see device | Update Windows, macOS, and chipset/USB drivers |
| Sleep or lid state | Stops the moment the screen sleeps | Set ports to stay powered or keep the system awake during charging |
Laptop Won’t Charge iPad: Core Reasons
Low-Power USB-A Or USB-C Ports
Older USB-A ports often top out at a small current budget. Some USB-C ports on laptops behave the same when they are data-only. That’s fine for a mouse, not for a tablet. When the port can’t advertise enough current or negotiate PD, iPad protects its battery and refuses to pull power while the screen is on.
Wrong Or Weak Cable
Not every cable is built for charging. Short, well-made USB-C charge cables handle higher current. Long, thin, or worn leads drop voltage under load and make charging flaky. If you use a hub, the cable from the hub to the laptop also matters.
Power Management Settings
Windows can suspend individual USB ports to save energy. That helps battery life but can interrupt power to attached devices. Many vendors ship extra tools that cut power to ports when the lid is closed or the battery is low. Those features are handy for travel; turn them off while you troubleshoot.
Hubs And Adapters Without Real Power
Bus-powered hubs borrow energy from the same port they share for data. They can’t deliver much to a tablet. For reliable charging, look for a powered hub or a dock with a PD input and a PD output that lists wattage for downstream devices.
Thermal Limits And Battery Health
iPad slows or pauses charging when it’s too warm or too cold. If you see a charging paused notice or the tablet feels hot, let it cool. Cases and intense workloads raise temperature; give it time, then try again.
Software And Driver Gaps
When the OS or drivers are out of date, the USB controller may crash or power rules may be wrong. Install system updates, firmware from the laptop maker, and updates for iPadOS. After update and reboot, try a direct connection with a single cable.
Fix For Laptop Not Charging iPad Over USB-C
Work through these steps in order. Each one isolates a different link in the chain—power source, cable, port, and software.
- Test with a known good 20W wall charger. If that works, the iPad and cable are fine; the laptop path is at fault.
- Swap the cable for a short, certified USB-C charge cable. Avoid old USB-A leads and unknown adapters while testing.
- Try every USB-C port. Some ports provide charging out; others are data-only. Look for a charging icon.
- Bypass hubs and docks. Connect iPad directly to the laptop. If you must use a hub, pick one with its own power and a PD pass-through.
- On Windows, turn off USB selective suspend for the active power plan and reboot. Also set the plan to keep USB ports active while plugged in.
- On Dell and some other brands, enable USB PowerShare or an equivalent setting so ports stay powered with the lid closed or the system asleep.
- Quit high-draw apps on the laptop during charging. Heavy GPU or CPU load can reduce how much power a port can share while on battery.
- Inspect and clean ports gently with a soft brush. If the connector rocks or the plug won’t seat, seek service.
- Update system BIOS or firmware, chipset and USB drivers, and iPadOS. Then test again with a direct cable.
| If You See | Likely Cause | Next Move |
|---|---|---|
| Not Charging while screen on, slow gain while asleep | Port offers little current or no PD | Use a PD-capable port or wall adapter; try a shorter cable |
| Connect/disconnect sound loop on Windows | Driver or USB controller fault | Update drivers and firmware; reboot and test a single device |
| Charges from wall but never from laptop | Laptop ports limited or power-saving active | Disable selective suspend; test all ports; enable PowerShare |
| Charges only with lid open | Ports power off during sleep | Change sleep and USB settings; keep the laptop awake |
| Charges from one side of the laptop only | Different controllers or power rules per side | Use the side that works for charging |
| Works via powered dock, not via simple dongle | Dongle passes data only; no power budget | Use a powered hub or a dock with PD pass-through |
| Cable warms up and charge stops | High resistance or damaged cable | Replace with a known good, short USB-C charge cable |
| Charging paused alert on iPad | Temperature out of range | Let it cool, remove case, avoid sun, then reconnect |
When A Laptop Is The Wrong Tool
For long meetings, gaming sessions, or heavy editing, the laptop may not keep up with iPad demand. A dedicated USB-C PD adapter with 20W or more is the simple fix. Apple’s MacBook chargers also work and will step down to the level the tablet accepts. Use the supplied USB-C cable or a certified replacement and plug into mains power.
Safety And Care Tips
Stick with reputable adapters and certified cables. Do not charge near water or under pillows. If a port sparks, smells burnt, or the cable scorches, stop and get it checked. Avoid yanking on the cord; pull from the plug to protect sockets on both devices.
What To Do If Nothing Works
Test with a second iPad or phone on the same cable and port. If none of your devices charge from the laptop, the port hardware or firmware may need service. If your iPad refuses every known good charger and cable, contact service. Bring both devices and your best cable so a technician can reproduce the fault.
How To Spot The Right Port On Popular Laptops
Not all USB-C ports behave the same. Many Windows laptops ship with one port that handles charging and higher power for accessories, and other ports that are data only. Look for tiny icons next to the port: a lightning bolt often means a high-power Thunderbolt or USB4 port; a battery icon points to a charging-capable jack. On some models, only the left or right side offers these extras. If icons are missing, check the manual in the help app or the maker’s website. Testing is quick: plug the iPad into each port with the same cable and watch the battery indicator for a minute or two.
Cable Buying Guide For Reliable Charging
A good cable prevents headaches. Pick a short USB-C charge cable from a known brand. For iPad models with USB-C, a cable rated for at least 60W is a safe bet. Thicker conductors and an e-marker chip keep voltage steady under load. Avoid USB-A to USB-C or Lightning when you want strong charging from a laptop; those pairings are fine for syncing but tend to top out at a low wattage. If a cable’s jacket is cracked, the plug wiggles, or the strain relief has split, retire it. Mixing old adapters and extenders introduces weak links and odd bugs, so test with one fresh cable from end to end.
Settings Walkthrough On Windows
Open Power Options and edit the active plan. Set USB selective suspend to Off while you test. Under detailed settings, keep the system awake when plugged in and allow the USB controller to stay active. Some vendors include their own control panels. On Dell, look for a flag named USB PowerShare or similar and enable it. On Lenovo, check Intelligent Cooling or Conservation Mode, which may change port behavior. After changes, reboot and test a direct cable to the iPad.
Settings Walkthrough On macOS
Open System Settings and go to Battery. Pick Power Adapter and set the display to stay on long enough for a charge test. If you use Energy Saver features that put disks or ports to sleep, set them to stay active during charging. Try both sides of a Mac with multiple USB-C ports and avoid daisy-chaining through external drives while you test.
Myths That Waste Time
Leaving an iPad plugged into a modern charger does not train the battery. iPadOS manages charging on its own and slows the last stretch to protect longevity. A high-watt MacBook adapter will not force too much power into a tablet; the device only draws what it requests. Fast charging does not require a special magic cable name; it requires a clean cable that can carry the current the devices agree to use.
Signs Of A Faulty Charger Or Port
Sometimes the iPad and laptop are fine, and the weak link is a single part. Here are red flags: the cable feels hot, the plug arcs or clicks, the port only works when you hold the connector at an angle, or the charge dot flickers even at idle. If any of these happen with multiple devices, suspect the port. If the issue follows the cable from device to device, replace the cable. When a dock behaves oddly with many accessories, update its firmware or swap it out during tests.
A Ten-Minute Health Check
Run a quick test to quantify progress. Charge the iPad from a wall adapter rated at 20W or higher for ten minutes and note the gain. Then repeat from the laptop’s best port with the same cable. If the laptop adds only a point or two with the screen on, that port is just for data or offers a tiny current budget. If it keeps pace with the wall adapter, you’ve found a workable setup. Keep the results in a note so you can repeat checks later. Consistency beats guesswork during troubleshooting. Now.