It usually means the battery, charger, or power settings are blocking a charge—try a different adapter, reset battery drivers, and check BIOS/battery health.
Laptop says plugged in but not charging: fast checks
You see the charging icon, yet the percentage sits still. Start with quick, low risk moves before you change parts. Unplug the adapter from the wall and the laptop, wait ten seconds, then reconnect both ends firmly. Bypass power strips and try a wall socket you know works. If the brick has an LED, confirm it’s lit. If not, swap the cable or the outlet.
Next, close heavy apps, dim the screen, and pause updates. If the battery starts inching up, the adapter may not have enough wattage to charge while the system is under load. Some adapters can run a laptop but won’t raise the battery during intense use. On Mac, Apple notes that a low-watt power adapter can run the computer yet fail to charge; see If your Mac battery won’t charge for details.
| What you see | Most likely cause | Try this first |
|---|---|---|
| “Plugged in, not charging” while working hard | Adapter wattage too low for current load | Quit heavy apps, dim screen, test with the original or higher-watt adapter |
| Battery stops around 80–95% | Battery protection feature is active | Check Optimized Battery Charging on Mac or vendor battery care settings on Windows |
| Battery level falls even on AC | Defective adapter or loose connector | Try another socket, cable, or known-good adapter |
| Charging starts then drops out | Loose DC jack or bent USB-C pin | Inspect port and plug; test the other USB-C port if you have one |
| Windows shows 0% available (plugged in) | Battery driver glitch or aged pack | Reinstall the battery driver; run a battery report to check health |
| Mac says “Not Charging” with a healthy battery | Optimized charging or low-watt adapter | Let it sit, or connect the correct wattage adapter |
| Battery charges only when off | Adapter near its limit or thermal throttling | Shut down to test, clean vents, reduce load; try higher-watt adapter |
What this message actually means
The phrase doesn’t always signal a dead battery. It can mean the system is powered by the adapter but charge current is paused or limited. Laptops juggle input power, battery state, heat, and system demand. If any limit trips, the charging controller may stop raising the percentage until conditions improve.
Modern laptops also use smart charging to preserve cells. Optimized Battery Charging on Mac may hold a system near 80% for long stretches. Many Windows models have a similar toggle, often called battery conservation or charging thresholds. Lenovo explains that a cap around 55–60% or a stop near 95% can be normal with its settings; see Battery stops charging at 95%.
Charger capacity and cables
USB-C power adds a variable: the plug and the cable negotiate wattage. A thin data-only cable may limit current so the laptop draws just enough to run, not charge. The fix is simple: use the cable that shipped with the charger or a certified USB-C cable rated for the wattage your laptop needs. If your laptop came with a barrel-tip adapter, stick with the original model or a true equivalent.
Ports, docks, and power strips
Docks and hubs can change the math. A dock may pass less power than the adapter can supply on its own. So test the adapter straight to the laptop. Skip surge protectors during diagnosis. Go straight to the wall to remove one more variable from the chain.
Windows steps that resolve most cases
These moves are safe, quick, and proven on Windows 10 and 11. Work from top to bottom.
1) Power reset
Shut down. Unplug the adapter. If your battery is removable, pop it out. Hold the power button for twenty seconds to clear residual charge. Reinsert the battery, plug in, and boot. Many laptops resume normal charging after this simple reset.
2) Reinstall battery drivers
In Device Manager, expand Batteries. Right-click “Microsoft AC Adapter” and “Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery,” and choose Uninstall device for each. Don’t worry; Windows will reinstall them on reboot. This refresh fixes status glitches for many users.
3) Generate a battery health report
Open an elevated Command Prompt and run powercfg /batteryreport. The report shows design capacity, full-charge capacity, and cycle count. If full-charge capacity is far below design capacity, the pack is worn. Microsoft documents this report on its help page; see the Windows battery report.
4) Check vendor charging tools
Open your vendor app: Lenovo Vantage, Dell Power Manager, MyASUS, HP Support Assistant, or similar. Look for charging thresholds, battery care, or conservation modes. If a cap is set, the system may sit at a target like 80% by design.
5) Update BIOS/UEFI and power firmware
Vendors release updates that fix adapter detection and charging logic. Install BIOS and power manager updates from your laptop’s support page while on AC power.
6) Test with the right wattage adapter
Match or exceed the wattage your laptop expects. Gaming and creator models often need 130W, 180W, or more. A 45W phone charger won’t charge those systems even if the plug fits.
7) Inspect the DC jack and the plug
Wiggle is a red flag. If the connector feels loose, the jack may be worn or cracked from strain. Dirt or bent pins inside a USB-C port can also break negotiation. Use a light to inspect the port and clean gently with a wooden toothpick.
8) Watch thermals
High heat can pause charging to protect the pack. Clean vents, lift the rear edge for airflow, and keep the laptop off soft surfaces that block intake. If a fan is noisy or stalled, get it checked.
9) Try a clean boot
Third-party power tools can fight with vendor services. Use a clean boot to rule out a service conflict. If charging resumes, add software back one piece at a time until you spot the offender.
10) Run the vendor’s battery test
Most vendors ship a built-in diagnostic. HP, Dell, Lenovo, and ASUS offer guided tests that read the controller inside the pack. If the test flags the battery, plan for a replacement.
Why laptops show “plugged in, not charging”: deeper causes
If quick steps don’t help, look at these deeper layers. Each one can stop the percentage from rising even with a good wall socket and cable.
Battery conservation features
Many business and gaming laptops let you set charge caps for longer pack life. The setting might be in BIOS or a vendor app. Conservation modes often keep the battery near a mid-range level to reduce wear when the laptop lives on a desk.
Adapter identification
Some vendors read a chip in the adapter to confirm model and wattage. If the ID wire or data pin fails, the laptop may run on AC yet refuse to charge. A genuine adapter of the right wattage is the cleanest test.
USB-C negotiation limits
USB Power Delivery requires a match between source, cable, and sink. Older or cheap cables may cap at 60W. If your laptop expects 100W or 140W, it will run but won’t raise the level. Use a certified cable rated for your wattage and a charger that supports the needed profile.
Thermal or voltage limits
Charging controllers watch temperature and voltage windows. If the pack is hot, cold, or near endpoints, the controller reduces or pauses current. A cool room and a light workload often bring charging back.
Battery wear
Every pack ages. If the full-charge capacity has dropped well below design capacity, the controller can mark the pack as due for service and hold the level. The Windows report and vendor diagnostics reveal this quickly.
Port or board faults
A DC jack solder crack, a damaged USB-C retimer, or a failed charge IC can present the same message. If you’ve ruled out software, cables, and caps, it’s time for a repair ticket.
| Brand | Feature name | Where to change it |
|---|---|---|
| Lenovo | Conservation Mode / Charge thresholds | Lenovo Vantage > Power or BIOS > Config > Power |
| Dell | Battery charge setting / Primarily AC use | Dell Power Manager or BIOS > Battery settings |
| Apple | Optimized Battery Charging | System Settings > Battery > Battery Health |
| HP | Battery Care Function | HP Support Assistant or BIOS > Power |
| ASUS | Battery Health Charging | MyASUS > Customization > Power & Performance |
Mac steps that clear the not charging label
First, confirm the adapter wattage printed on the brick matches what your Mac expects. Apple states a low-watt adapter may power the Mac yet fail to charge the battery. If that fits, switch to the adapter that shipped with your model or a genuine one with the right rating. The Apple help page linked earlier explains this case.
If the Mac holds near 80% for a while, that can be normal with Optimized Battery Charging. You can turn it off temporarily from Battery settings if you need a full charge today, then re-enable it later to preserve the pack. If the message persists even with the correct adapter and no cap, shut down, unplug, and wait a minute. Then plug in and boot. Many cases clear after that simple power cycle.
When a part needs replacing
Sometimes a new adapter or a fresh battery is the only path. Signs that point to hardware: the adapter LED never lights, the plug runs hot, ports spark, or the battery report shows full-charge capacity far below design capacity. A worn DC jack or a broken USB-C port also fits this pattern. If the laptop is under warranty, contact the vendor for a service plan.
Safe charging habits that prevent a repeat
Use the original or an approved adapter and a cable rated for your laptop’s wattage. Give the adapter room to breathe. Keep vents clean, avoid blocking intake with blankets, and keep firmware updated. If your model offers battery caps, use them when you park the laptop on a desk for long stretches. And keep a short checklist handy: outlet, adapter, cable, port, settings, health report.
Quick references for deeper reading: Apple’s charger advice above, Lenovo’s conservation mode note linked earlier, and Microsoft’s battery report guide for Windows health checks.